Las olas means "the waves," as in the motto of this new taco and burrito spot in Exeter—"a clean wave of eating." I'm not sure about the metaphor there but I do think it's a breath of fresh ocean air with its bright atmosphere and attitude and simple, fresh, basic Mexican fare.
While there's not much variation, it's quick, inexpensive and very tasty and the daily specials offer sparks of creativity that are well worth a try.
Here's all you need to know for basics. Ingredients — diced chicken, pork, steak, lettuce, salsa, shredded cheese, salsa, black beans, refried beans, sour cream, guacamole, cilantro, rice, lime, pico de gallo, tortilla. Form — burrito (large torpedo made with a flour tortilla wrapped around ingredients, taco (smaller version of a burrito, basically), bowl (free form ingredients sans tortilla) quesadilla (cheese pressed/grilled in a tortilla), salad (lettuce with any ingredients plus avocado and tomato with a citrus dressing). Other ingredients/forms I've seen lately — locally made chorizo, ancho chile ground beef, fajitas. Beverages — Mexican beer, a small wine selection, juices, margaritas and mojitos from a mix, cool Mexican sodas. Try the pineapple.
Walk into the brightly colored, upbeat in décor dining room and go up to the counter. The staff is friendly and fast. The point person "mans" the machine that steams the tortillas for your burrito or grill presses it for the quesadilla, fills a part of it and then more of the staff asks you what other stuff you want in it. It can go by quickly, but now that I've been there a few times I don't get so flustered. I always try something that's off the usual menu. Lately they added fajitas, not the kind that comes sizzling ominously out of the kitchen on a dangerous iron skillet, but constructed there on a plate, the steak version delicious chunks of dark beef marinated to tender with a slight smoky flavor and topped with sautéed green peppers ($10.25). They add some Spanish rice, refreshingly moist, even buttery, black beans, sour cream, salsa and three hot soft corn tortillas — it's a lot of food. The salsa is chunky with tomato, which is good, but it's the meat that is center stage for me, really very tasty.
I also tried some fried plantain with cumin ($4.75), two soft mildly sweet halves of plantain fried and dusted with warm spices, like that oh so exotic cumin and topped with sour cream and salsa. It could actually be a whole vegetarian meal it was so substantial and the spices were a great trip away from the everyday. A taco made with a nicely spicy ancho-enhanced ground beef is enough for a snack. These are the soft version, a half of a tortilla filled with your choice of ingredients. Mix it up at $1.90-$3.25 each depending on your main filling.
Chorizo, when available, is good too, chewy and spicy. I like it in a burrito with cilantro and salsa, but they can do a fajita with it with the sausage all grilled and smoky. Quesadillas here are puzzling to me, however. My idea of a quesadilla: a tortilla filled with ingredients, especially cheese, folded and pressed together so it all melts. The outside is crispy, the inside hot and gooey, which is basically what you get here if you just order cheese but if you order chicken or another meat, they serve the meat outside the cheese-filled tortilla, not inside. Of course, there are regional differences in preparations, but for me, I like all my ingredients inside with the cheese and even salsa and guacamole.
They don't serve much seafood here. A good fish taco would be great, but on Fridays they do have some tangy marinated shrimp, which you can use in whatever form you like. I like it in the bowl, sort of like a warm salad I can toss all together, especially with their smooth lemony guacamole so it's great to visit on a Friday for some variation. A cold beer, a couple of tacos or a robust fajita plate and you've got a good, quick hearty meal of fresh, tasty Mexican food in a happy, bright setting.
If you like fast, fresh Mexican food, try:
Dos Amigos Burritos, Dover, Portsmouth, Concord, www.dosamigosburritos.com
I still love those stuffed hot peppers and the great late night burrito.
Chipotle, 45 Gosling Road, Newington, 433-5981, www.chipotle.com
About the same drill in terms of process and selection, but on a bigger scale.
Dining Out: Las Olas Taqueria
30 Portsmouth Ave., Exeter, 418-8901, www.lasolastaqueria.com
Hours: Monday-Tuesday 11 a.m.-8 p.m.; Wednesday-Saturday until 9 p.m.; Sunday noon-8 p.m.
Food ****. Simple, tasty, quick Mexican fare made with fresh ingredients some leaning toward the exotic.
Service ***. Self-service, but they make it all while you watch and it goes quickly.
Ambience *** and a half. Bright, happy décor.
Overall *** and a half. The food rules here, with tasty fresh ingredients in simple or complex combinations depending on your mood. Go for the specials for a change of taste.
Ratings ***** - Excellent
