Elegant dishes and vibrant flavors at Four
Perusing the menu on the door of Four, the new restaurant on State Street won't tell you much. It might list merely "halibut" and in that case you'd have no idea that the fresh white fish comes with a delicate orange beurre blanc or that the roasted chicken confit is cooked in duck fat, making the skin all crispy.
All of that is revealed by the staff who'll tell you all about each dish in mouth-watering detail like a bit of culinary performance art — including the way some of the steaks are cooked in the wood-burning oven, hence the name "Four," the word for oven in French. 
Four: Steakhouse, Bistro, Yum
Four is part steakhouse, part bistro, a small spot with a decidedly neighborhood vibe. It is the result of what seemed to many who watched its progress, months and months of plenty of blood, sweat and tears on the part of chef/owner Simon Lampert and manager/owner Bryan Dagostino. I have to say it was all worth it because the pair have created a little gem with great food and a spirit that thrums through the restaurant....
And this restaurant is small. There's one intimate dining room, the rest is a space along the wall and then in front of the kitchen leading into the main dining area. In the warmer weather there will be outdoor seating they say, but in the meantime be prepared to be the center of attention from onlookers through the large windows. Exposed brick, good local artwork on the walls — nice warm décor. My only beef in the set-up department is that the small bar is awkward. I like dining at a bar and here, you have to be a bit of contortionist to get by other bar guests if you want to get out or in.
As in many local restaurants in the next month or so the menu will change just as the leaves will with fall menus coming out soon, but at Four always at the center of the cuisine is that wood-burning oven and the steaks. Soon they'll offer one four-course pre-fixe menu each night but for now, we ordered a la carte. We tried a small pizza margherita, a flatbread style pizza with a thin crispy crust, sweet tomato sauce and gooey house made mozzarella, a good way to start the meal or if you're snacking ($8). Do not miss the sticky ribs. Lampert made sticky famous with his Asian-influenced wings at 931 Ocean in Hampton and here he transfers the soy, ginger and sweet sauce to thick, melt-in-your-mouth ribs ($9). "It's an instant classic!" they'll tell you brightly and it well may be.
The crab cake is indeed only one cake, but the sweet Jonah crab inside is substantial, the outside crisp and the spicy aioli with it a good simple accent ($10). The chopped salad has a good pile of fluffy local greens and bits of crunchy sweet brickle and the Caesar salad comes with plump white anchovy, which could have used a touch more power in the dressing ($7). Mussels are fantastic. One evening's preparation included all the best of Asian flavors — green curry, ginger-like galangal, scallions, coconut and pineapple — with large tender mussels and enough broth for a tremendous amount of sopping up ($9).
For the most part, Four features a contemporary steakhouse menu with a choice of two sides served on your plate, rather than family style. And meat lovers rejoice, these steaks are delicious, flavorful, juicy, cooked perfectly. The staff, including sommelier Todd Cary who many will recognize as the guy who created wine lists at many area restaurants, is well-versed in steak speak and can tell you the differences between the bone-in Delmonico and the New York strip. Organic Farmer Andy ordered the 24-ounce Delmonico, which is basically rib-eye with elements of a filet mignon — flavorful with good marbling but also very tender. At $39 it's pricey but there was half of it to take home and the 16 ounce is also available. I had the filet mignon, which was fantastic but on another occasion tried the double pork chop, thick, lightly pink inside and with a hint of mint that made it taste rich and delicious ($21). Steaks are served with a tangy house made steak sauce but frankly I don't think they need it.
We also tried the half-roasted chicken confit slow-cooked in duck fat, which sounds decadent but was really the only dish that disappointed. While the skin was nice and crispy, the meat was dry. ($19). Fish dishes are very good, with rich red tuna cooked very rare in a mirin and lemongrass broth ($25). There are six sides to choose from, all simple and right from the farm including a ripe tomato and bacon salad, earthy roasted mushrooms, fresh creamed spinach, sweet potato hash and a rich potato and shallot gratin. Any of them can go well with any of the meats or fish.
The wine list is very good, which I expected under Cary's direction. It's a small list but the bottles are reasonably priced and just about every wine is available by the glass. The selection is good and each goes very well with the food. Desserts are simple and unfussy as in a piping hot peach cobbler served in a cast iron pan right from the oven and a dark chocolate cake oozing with molten chocolate ($9).
I like a good steakhouse and I like a good intimate neighborhood bistro and Four has managed to do both in one lively spot with simple elegant dishes offering some vibrant creative flavors and one juicy, delicious steak.
ining Out: Four
Four, 189 State St., Portsmouth, 319-1547, http://www.fouronstate.com/
Hours: Monday-Saturday, 5:30 p.m. to close
Food **** and a half. Part elegant finesse, part comfort food, with simple culinary concepts in creative, well-prepared dishes. Oh, and try a steak.
Service **** and a half. You'll develop a relationship with your server who will describe all the dishes in detail, a very effective way to present the menu.
Ambience ****. Bustling intimate neighborhood vibe.
Overall **** and a half. Comfort food with elegant bistro flair in cozy neighborhood atmosphere.
***** - Excellent
If you like an intimate bistro experience, try:
Black Trumpet Bistro, 29 Ceres St., Portsmouth, 431-0887, http://www.blacktrumpetbistro.com/
Locals gather in the upstairs wine bar to sample the exotic flavors of Northern Africa within New England dishes.
Anneke Jans, 60 Wallingford Square, Kittery, Maine, (207) 439-0001, http://www.annekejans.net/
Sit next to the neighbors with a bowl of mussels
Rachel Forrest is a former restaurant owner who lives in Portsmouth. Her column appears Wednesdays in Go & Do. Her restaurant review column, Dining Out, appears Thursdays in Spotlight magazine. Hear her on Wine Me Dine Me on alternate Wednesdays at noon on WSCA-FM 106.1. She can be reached by e-mail at rforrest@seacoastonline.com.
