Dining Out: Abercrombie's Seafood Grille
New name, new chef, new menu
12/18/2008 By Rachel Forrest
You might know Abercrombie's Seafood Grille as Abercrombie & Finch, indeed, that's what it says on the placemats still, but they've made quite an effort here to update the logo with a bright, more modern look and naturally, the menu as well. They've brought in Chef John Mebane to stir things up and he has, adding a touch of modern to the already familiar pub dining.
The place looks the same — plenty of dark wood with British memorabilia on the walls and a huge bar area in which to dine or drink or both. The menu is jazzed up a bit as well and thankfully, some of their items are available as the "Aber's portion," smaller and less expensive. We started with the smaller portion of an entrée, the Shrimp Jambalya, a good mix of large shrimp, terrific big chunks of hot andouille sausage in a tomato sauce with peppers and Cajun spices ($10.95). It's a dish we don't find around here very much and this was good, although I thought they could have gone further with the spice.
Extensive classic menu and separate bar for casual hanging out.
The wedge salad is that classic hunk of iceberg lettuce covered with creamy blue cheese dressing, chopped tomatoes, onions and plenty of crisp bacon ($6.95). We also tried the seafood chowder, which had some good tender clams, haddock and tiny shrimp in it, bacon and potatoes, fairly classic and tasty ($3.95/cup). They also have items like potato skins and an interesting dish of Thai chicken and beef skewers that went by to another table that looked intriguing.
Entrees run from the fried seafood platters we're all familiar with to grilled and broiled fish, steaks and more unusual fare like a Seafood Paella. There are also many chicken dishes here which is unusual. I've had the Finch's Bird here before, with lobster meat and béarnaise sauce and it's quite decadent. We opted for a mix of meat and fish. Andy tried the bacon-wrapped scallops, huge scallops made mildly smoky by the thick bacon and made too sweet I'm afraid by a maple Dijon glaze. It was served with mashed potatoes with cheese melted in it, an interesting preparation that added flavor if not an odd texture, and some lightly cooked spinach ($19.95). The scallops were great, but a lighter touch on the sauce would have been perfect.
I got a special surf and turf with fried Ipswich clams and a filet mignon ($24.95). I asked if the filet came with a sauce and our nice waitress brought me some brown mushroom sauce. I should have asked for the béarnaise from the Finch's bird, but really the steak didn't even need a sauce as it was nicely seasoned and perfectly cooked. The clams were excellent too, plump, juicy, tender and the coating good and crunchy. I opted for sweet potato fries instead of baked potato, mashed or fries and they were fine. A side of thick cut summer squash and zucchini came with it as well and the whole was a sort of wacky mix on the plate. It might be interesting to have a dish with a more integrated choice of sides. Don't leave it up to us! That way there's more harmony on the plate.
Desserts are freakishly large. We were full by this time, but ah well, I have to have dessert, right? The Piscataqua Mud Pie is a mile high hunk of coffee ice cream with fudge sauce and whipped cream. Seriously, I don't know how people eat this much after a meal, but it was good ($5.95). My Lemon Lust was glowing in the dark it was so luridly yellow. It's sort of like a lemon meringue pie in a large square with shortbread and soft cream cheese instead of meringue. I'd like it more tangy, but it did have many good textures ($5.95).
Abercrombie's Seafood Grille. New name, new chef, new menu, with just about the same cozy vibe. I like it when Chef Mebane cooks more on the creative side, especially in dishes like Paella and Jambalaya and those intriguing skewers with some Asian flavors but he also does the familiar favorites well which fits into any mood.
Dining Out: Abercrombie's Seafood Grille
Abercrombie's Seafood Grille, 219 Lafayette Road, North Hampton, 964-9774, www.abercrombieandfinch.com
Hours: Sunday through Wednesday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Thursday through Saturday 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Food *** and a half. Tasty seafood dishes with some classic and some more creative fare.
Service *** and a half. Pleasant and enthusiastic.
Ambience. *** and a half. The menu and branding has been updated, but the dining area is still dark pub cozy.
Overall. *** and a half.
Five stars - Excellent
Four stars - Very good
Three stars - Good
Two stars - Fair
One star - Poor
CHOICE TIPS
If you like cozy family spots, but with a good bar too, try:
The Tavern at the Rivers Edge, 163 Water St., Exeter, 772-7393, www.tavernatriversedge.com
Cool local bar hang and lovely water view dining.
The Old Salt, 490 Lafayette Road, Hampton, 926-8322, www.oldsaltnh.com
Rachel Forrest is a former restaurant owner who lives in Exeter. Her column appears Wednesdays in Go&Do. Her restaurant review column, Dining Out, appears Thursdays in Spotlight magazine. Hear her on Wine Me Dine Me on alternate Wednesdays on WSCA-FM 106.1. She can be reached by e-mail at rforrest@seacoastonline.com.
